After a wonderful evening with new friends at the J-Hoppers guesthouse it was time start a new day. This guesthouse is fantastic by the way. The place is very recent , the owners are so sweet , you have choices between dormitory or private room and best of all you have access to three mini private Onsen !
What a great way to relax the body after the previous long hikes. This mini Onsen was outdoor. Onsens uses water from volcanique sources and has a lot of health benefit (minerals). The water is usually very hot but how good it’s feels each times. You’ll find Onsens in many places in Japan. Ranging from 3 to 8 euro in average (for the public ones). Which is not that expensive. This is strongly part of the Japanese culture and I have to say what an awesome creation. Japanese are so good to create out of nature. You always feel a certain respect and humility in the way they treat nature.
Today I was really tired , my shoulders hurted me quite a bit so I thought I needed to rest for the day. Luckily I have met a great colombian guy at the guesthouse that also planned to chill for the day. So I forgot about hiking. What is the point to push yourself in pain when you can just take the time to recharge and enjoy theses unique places.
I’m meeting two types of travellers.
The Fast travellers , people that want to see every beautiful spots in very little time. Too often the Fast travellers cares more about their Instagram account than the actual places they visit. On the other end of the spectrum you have the Slow travellers , people that take the time to connect with the local daily life , to learn about the country , looking at the small details. I found theses Slow travellers more interesting and also more availlable to meet others as their mindset is already different. To me travelling isn’t about ticking as many boxes as possible. Rather it’s an immersion in a foreign country that goes way beyond the “famous attractions”. Of course the main street is always beautiful but to me the side streets are more authentic and feels more alive. I guess it all comes down to our perceptions but I can only advice fellow travellers to go off the beaten path a few time during their travelling. This is where I have met the most interesting people (Japaneses and foreigners) and shared the most amazing moments. To me this feels more valuable than a beautiful picture.
We rented two bicyles from our guesthouse and went on a exploration day in the area.
This is the Yusomine Onsen. A picturesque Onsen where you can see a hot stream flowing in the village. It’s also one of the oldest Onsen in Japan. This village is so cosy , it will be a shame to pass by just for a nightstay. I’m glad my body was destroyed because it made me choose to stop and therefore to enjoy a unique area of Japan.
Riding around Yusomine Onsen. This is a must thing to do if you take a break here. There is not many cars and the views are great. Their is also other Onsen and waterfall to explore.
Clear blue water. You can tell by the colors how good this water will be for your body.
Now let’s go to a nearby waterfall.
Gorgeous forest on the way to the waterfal (I forgot the name but it was the cloosest from the guesthouse). You have to hike 20min to reach that little hidden gem.
The waterfall. No one was here. We went for a brief splash in it and wow this was really cold! The best way to wake up. Many people actually take cold shower in the morning , it seems to give a lot of energy but how not easy hey ^^
We have some vegetable maki for snacks. In Japan the snacks you’ll find in small stores will be tasty , healthy and cheap ! They are called “Bentos” (Japanese name for snack / lunch box).
After a freezing splash we went to a burning water at the Wataze Onsen. A big outdoor Onsen with different pools. We spend 2 hours in that amazing place. Onsen are a good place to remove all the barriers we tend to put in our lifes. A place where tensions literraly melt. I was impressed to see how deep our conversations became. It really disinhibit you at some deep levels. Allowing you to share deeper part of your self. It’s also an interesting contrast from the Modern Japan with all the codes and rules to the Natural Japan , the Naked Japan .
It was time to say goodbye to the guesthouse. Make sure you go there if you hike Kumano Kodo. Be sure to meet wonderful backpackers with inspiring stories to share.

Yunomine Onsen at dawn. I couldnt find any accommodation on the trail so I took a bus to Shingu , a nearby town slighly off the path. I had no other choices but you can always take another early bus in the morning to get back on the trail. This was my plan but this time without the backpack !
Time to put some calories in for the last day tomorrow.
This an Okonomiyaki with potaoes and cheese. Pretty heavy but yummy !
Tomorrow I have the toughest day on the Kumano Kodo so I better go to sleep early and catch the morning bus to Koguchi.
See you for the last part of this Kumano Kodo episode 🙂
Onaka Suita おなかがすいた
I’m starving.

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