Art island

Let’s go on a new adventure in the Seto Inland sea. I’m going to Naoshima island which is known for its modern art museums, architecture and sculptures. I heard of it a few times during my travelling in Japan. This sounded like an interesting place to visit so let’s go.

From Kii Katsuura the journey was long. It tooked me about 8 hours using train , bus , boat , bicyle and also the famous Shinkansen or “Bullet train”.

The legendary Shinkansen. I was excited to try this one. The experience I had was beyond my expectations. The train was very fast. It tooked 45 min to go to Okayama from Osaka (180km distance). It’s a fast train but the most amazing thing about it it’s what’s inside. Smoking areas , vending machines , a lot of spaces for the legs. You can even tilt your seat backward (like in planes). Talking about plane there is also a “stewart” that will sell you Bento lunch boxes and other food items (just like inside a plane). The Shinkansen is more expensive than other transportation but it’s an experience. It’s a very comfortable way of travelling in Japan. Make sure to try it at least once.

The journey is ending with a 20 min boat ride to Naoshima island. Exciting time. Say hello to Naoshima.
Sunset time at the principal port of Naoshima. You can spot the famous pumpkin art.

I already like this place. It’s a small island with a mediterranean laiback feel to it. I always look at the people when I discover a new place. You can already feel the artistic vibe just by looking at the people around.

Time to have our first dinner in Naoshima with my good friend Ernesto (It’s the third time we bump onto each others since the hike). We tried a curry place called “Cin.na.mon”. This was a cool place with an artistic design inside. Everything seems to gravitate around art on this island.

“Mango Parfait” for dessert. This was sweet but so good.

After a nice meal and a sugar high we wanted to explore some of the artworks. At night you get to experience the art just by yourself and often with a brand new perspective.

Artwork from outside.

And from inside now. This was mindblowing. It was a big geometrical mess which affect the perception of space. Also the contrast with the light inside and the dark outside created a cool effect.

This is the “pumpkin” art we saw earlier but from inside and at nightime. Again this was mindblowing.  I’m fascinated by these arts. Your perceptions will change accordingly from where you look at them. And also when you look at them. It’s an experience on his own. Art can become a portal to enhance or unlock certain emotions. If you are open to it you might feel it.

This was a really cool first insight of Naoshima. Tomorrow we are going to the most famous museum of the island but first let’s go back to my hotel. It was actually difficult to find accomodation during that period. The island is small and attracts a lot of tourists. On top of that there isn’t many hotels so make sure to book way in advance to get the best deals. I have to change hotel once during my stay. From the main port to Honmura (another port at the other end of the island) it takes only 10 minutes by bicyles. The island is home to only 3100 people.

Ready for a new day in Naoshima. What’s the best way to get around this island ? Mmmh I let you guess.

Bicyle of course 🙂 There is a fews hill but this is not an issue. This is such a fun and healthy way to explore the island. It’s not big either so no worries with distances.

Why do people go to Naoshima actually ?

The five main reasons why you should come here.

Even thought I love art i’m not really a museum person. But this place has something different , I cann’t wait to experience a museum here. This morning I have a meeting at 10 am with Ernesto. We are going to the Chichu art museum.

The entrance. All the museum in Naoshima were designed by the famous architect Tadao Ando. He primarily used concrete , glass , steel and wood for his constructions. If I had to choose one word to describe his work it will be “Minimalism”.

We were not allowed to take pictures so I’m just gonna explain you briefly what was inside. The Chichu is a big museum with three authors artworks inside. It’s crazy to have such little artworks regarding the size of it. You will find works from Claude Monet , Walter De Maria and James Turrell , all in the Tadao Ando designed museum. The architecture was incredible. This construction is a piece of art on his own. To me it felt like a journey from one room to another. Some room were small others were big. Some room dark other bright. It felt like a sensorial journey with contrasts between each rooms. I love how the natural light was used inside. It created different atmosphere each times.

The Chichu museum from above (picture from the website). Tadao Ando choosed to build underground structures.

At first when I thought about museum I was not excited about it. But today wow… This place felt like an experience more than anything else. The uses of space and lighting was so coherent. You could feel an harmony between the artworks. The feelings that was coming up in certain rooms was insane. I dont want to spoil anything, moreover it’s impossible to truely express feelings on paper. You’ll have to try the Chichu museum. Be aware that this a Minimalist museum. I know some people wont be receptive to it. Art is all subjective at the end.

It was time to say goodbye to Ernesto. It was really nice to spend time with a new friend in a cool place. I have learned more about art and felt inspired too. Open your eyes and makes some great friends !

Time to explore Naoshima with my good old bicycle. Art really is the center of attention in this Island.

Creativity lies at each corner.

Naoshima is also home to many cool cafés and restaurants. But be prepared to see most of them cloosed after 5pm. You can always find places for a meal in the main port area. The bicyle is a must if you want to get around easily , also there is a good transportation bus system if you feel lazy.

You can also rent scooters like these guys.

Nature is taking back the control over this house.

I love the laidback island vibe here. You feel disconnected from all the worries of the outside world. A different rythm.

After that I went to the “Art House Project”. This is a collection of abandoned houses, workshops, a temple and a shrine that have been converted into art installations and venues for contemporary art by artists and architects from Japan and abroad. Each places to visit has it’s own flavor. There is 6 of them located clooseby from each others.

Haisha Art house.

Minamidera Art house. This one was my favorite of all. It was an experience more than anything else. You basically enter a pitch dark room where you are asked to sit. After a few seconds you start realizing a very low lighting from far away. Almost like a cinema screen. After 5min inside your vision become used to the dark and you could see the “screen” better. After that you are asked to walked toward that light. You could perceived the body shapes of the others next to you. This was an insane experience where you looses completely the notion of distances and space. To me it felt like being in a space between death and after death. Interesting for sure.

Time to try the Onsen now. This was of course a piece of art.

“I love YU” Onsen in Naoshima. The inside was as crazy as the outside. There were a big elephant in the middle. The ceiling was painted with psychelic patterns. Some slow world ambient music was playing in the background. It really added to the experience. A unique Onsen created by Shinro Ohtake. It took him 10 years to complete it. Make sure to bath in this crazy Onsen.

This was a day full of suprises. Naoshima is a little gem hidden in the Seto inland sea. A place that will tease all your senses for an unforgettable experience. Tomorrow I’m going for a day trip to Teshima island just next to Naoshima. There is apparently one of the most fascinating contemporary art museum there. Sounds exciting.

Good night people.